Road Spotlight: The Mae Hong Son Loop as Thailand's Cool Season Begins

As the alpine passes close for the winter, the hills of northern Thailand are coming into their best months. The Mae Hong Son Loop is a 600 km circuit from Chiang Mai through Pai, Mae Hong Son and Mae Sariang, and the season to drive it, with clear air and dry roads, runs from November to February.

What the forecast says

On 15 October the Thai Meteorological Department said upper Thailand would enter the cool season in the third week of October, about a week later than usual, with conditions lasting until around mid-February 2027. It expects the coolest weather from late December to early February, with the lowest temperatures around 10 to 12°C, mainly in the upper north and north-east. It also expects this season to be milder than the last one (The Star, via The Nation).

For a drive that climbs to around 1,400 m, that means cool mornings in the mountains and warm afternoons in the valleys. Pack something warm for early starts, and expect mist in the higher sections first thing.

The road

Route 1095 from Chiang Mai to Mae Hong Son is advertised as having 1,864 curves, and the provincial chamber of commerce will sell you a certificate to say you drove them. Going anticlockwise, the first 130 km to Pai are almost continuous second- and third-gear bends over forested ridges, and the road carries on in the same way to Mae Hong Son. The southern half on Route 108 is faster and more open, and a side trip up Doi Inthanon takes you to Thailand’s highest point.

Allow three to four days. This is a road to take at an easy pace, with stops in Pai and Mae Hong Son, rather than a run to tick off.

What to watch for

The surface on 1095 is mostly good but has sudden rough patches, steep cambers and diesel spills on the hairpins, so keep something in reserve on every corner. Minibuses and pickup trucks cut corners, and around Pai there are scooters everywhere. Traffic drives on the left.

Plan fuel stops in the larger towns, as high-octane fuel is not available everywhere. It is also worth going sooner rather than later in the season: from March the burning season brings heavy smoke haze, which lasts until early May.

Before you go

A long, slow mountain loop in warm weather is hard on brakes and cooling, so check fluid levels, tyres and pads first. Our road trip preparation guide has a checklist. A Lotus Evora or Emira will make the four days easier on luggage than an Elise, and the events calendar lists club drives if you would rather go in company.