Japan · Hairpins · One-way · Car culture

Irohazaka

Route 120 · Nikkō

The hairpin bends of Irohazaka climbing the forested mountainside above Nikkō
Photo: Kzaral, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Length
16 km10 miles
High point
1,269 m4,163 ft
Driving time
40 minutes for both roads
Season
April to November (very busy in October)
Toll
Free
Country
Japan

Irohazaka is a pair of one-way roads linking Nikkō with Lake Chūzenji: one for climbing, one for descending. Between them they have 48 hairpins, each signed with a character from the old Japanese 'iroha' syllabary. The descending road is the famous one from manga and anime, a staircase of tight hairpins dropping through forest.

The drive

The uphill road (the second Irohazaka) has two lanes and 20 corners, so slower traffic can be passed. It ends at Akechidaira, where a ropeway gives a view of Kegon Falls. The downhill road (the first) has 28 much tighter hairpins on a steep gradient.

Because both are one-way, you never meet oncoming traffic, which makes them unusually relaxing to drive for roads this tight.

In your Lotus

Hairpins with no oncoming traffic are an ideal place to enjoy a light, short-wheelbase car. Avoid the autumn-leaf season in late October, when the queue up the hill can last hours. Monkeys sit on the road and have learned that cars carry food; keep the windows up.

Watch out for

  • Gridlock during autumn colour weekends.
  • Wild monkeys on the road and the walls.
  • The descent is hard on brakes; use the gears.