Road Spotlight: The Hakone Turnpike as Autumn Reaches the Lake

The Hakone Turnpike is pictured most often in April, under its cherry trees. November is a strong case for the other end of the year. The colour is coming down the hills towards Lake Ashi, the summer haze has gone, and the view of Mount Fuji from the top is at its most reliable.

The road

The Turnpike is a privately run toll road climbing from Odawara, close to sea level, to about 1,000 m at Daikanzan. Unlike the tight passes elsewhere in the area, it is wide and smooth, with long uphill sweepers through forest. At the summit, the car park beside the Daikanzan lounge looks across to Fuji and down to the lake.

From there the Ashinoko Skyline and Hakone Skyline continue along the ridge, narrower and more technical.

When the colour arrives

Autumn in Hakone works downhill, the same way it does at Nikkō. The higher ground around Owakudani turns first, from late October. Forecasts published in October by Weathernews and collected by Hidden Japan Gems put peak colour at the Sengokuhara wetland garden from about 12 November and at Lake Ashi from about 15 November, with leaves falling towards the end of the month. The lower valley at Hakone-Yumoto tends to follow in late November and early December.

These are forecasts, and a warm autumn can push them back, so check again before you travel.

Fuji and the time of day

Cold, dry air is what clears the view of Fuji, which is why late autumn and winter are the best months for it. Cloud tends to build through the day, so the usual advice is to be at Odawara early in the morning. That also suits the road: it is quiet before eight, and at weekends the Daikanzan car park fills with car clubs, Lotus owners among them.

Hours, tolls and payment

The Turnpike is not open around the clock. Visit Kanagawa and other guides give the hours as 5:30 to 22:30, with last entry at 22:00, and the road can close in fog, snow or heavy rain. Since 1 July 2024 the main Odawara line has cost 900 yen for a standard car, and the short Hakone to Izu link another 200 yen, according to Traffic News. Carry cash, as card and ETC acceptance has changed over the years.

Before you go

Police patrol at weekends and the limits are low by European standards, so treat the Turnpike as a scenic drive, not a fast one. From December, fog and ice become more likely near the summit, and a low car on summer tyres is better kept for clear, dry days.

If you are touring Japan this autumn, Irohazaka at Nikkō has already had its colour and makes a good comparison. Our road trip preparation guide covers what to check on the car before a long drive.